Politics of Salt: The Devil in Your Kitchen

5–8 minutes

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By Janmojaya Barik 
About The Author

Janmojaya Barik is a student of Political Science with specialization in Mass Media and Journalism. He writes extensively on culture, politics, and elections and has industry experience contributing to CSR publications such as ClearCut alongside serving as a Campaign Management and Policy Research intern for the Hon’ble MP of Bargargh.

Salt: The Most Dangerous Thing in Your Kitchen

There is a jar of salt sitting somewhere in your kitchen right now. Probably near the stove. Probably unremarkable. You use it without thinking, replace it without thinking, and have never once considered that the substance sitting next to your cooking oil has, at various points in human history, funded empires, sparked revolutions, and brought a colonial superpower to its knees on a beach in Gujarat.

This is the thing about salt. It hides in plain sight. And it has been hiding in plain sight for approximately five thousand years of recorded political catastrophe.

The First Tax Was a Salt Tax

Let us begin at the beginning, which in this case is very far back indeed.

In China, a state monopoly on salt has existed since 119 BC and lasted until 2014, making it the world’s oldest state monopoly. China maintained control over salt for over two thousand years through dynasties, invasions, revolutions, and the entire arc of what we call modernity before finally, reluctantly, letting go.

At one point, salt taxes constituted over half of China’s revenues and contributed to the construction of the Great Wall

The Great Wall of China. Built, in part, with salt money. The next time someone describes it as a wonder of the ancient world, you are welcome to mention that it is also, technically, a monument to condiment taxation.

Because salt is a necessity of life, the salt tax had a broad base and could be set at a low rate and still be one of the most important sources of government revenue. This is the elegant and slightly sinister genius of taxing salt specifically. You cannot opt out. You cannot substitute. Every human body needs sodium to survive, which means every human body is, at all times, a potential source of government revenue. The state did not miss this observation.

Rome Built Roads for It

The first of the great Roman roads, the Via Salaria, or Salt Road, was built for transporting salt. Rome, the civilization that gave us democracy’s Ceasar, Antony, and Aurelius, built its most famous road not for armies, not for trade in the abstract, but specifically to move salt.

Roman soldiers were paid a salarium (a salt salary), which is where we get the word “salary” today and the phrase “he’s worth his salt.”

Every time someone says you are worth your salt, they are either lying or invoking a Roman military payment system from the first century BC. Language carries history like salt carries flavor, and for some people, it’s the only spice that exists.

France Nearly Collapsed Over It

If Rome built its empire on salt, France nearly lost its monarchy entirely because of it.

The gabelle, France’s salt tax, was first introduced in 1360 and became, over the following four centuries, one of the most spectacularly unjust revenue systems in European history. The French state monopolised the trade in salt and forced all individuals in France over the age of eight to buy a minimum amount of salt each year. Not an amount they chose. An amount the state decided they needed. Whether they needed it or not.

By 1789, when the revolution started, the salt tax made up nearly a quarter of royal revenues and varied wildly across regions. Researchers estimate that in the Paris region, salt sold for as much as ten times its actual cost. If you remember the French Revolution, the nobility paid nothing. The clergy paid nothing. The peasants paid everything and still didn’t get much. The high rate and unequal distribution of the gabelle provoked widespread smuggling, and its unpopularity was forcefully expressed in the lists of grievances drawn up for the Estates-General of 1789 on the eve of the revolution.

The French Revolution had many causes. But if you wanted to find the grievance that ran through every class, every province, and every kitchen in France, it must’ve been salt.

By 1660, salt was the main source of revenue for the Sun King Louis XIV, constituting 32% of royal income, which he used to build the Palace of Versailles. Versailles, that pretty monument to absolute power and aesthetics, was funded, in significant part, by taxing the thing poor people put in their tasteless soup.

The revolutionaries didn’t like Versailles. They must’ve been a boring bunch to hang out with.

Gandhi and The Spice

This brings us to a beach in Gujarat on the morning of April 6, 1930.

The Salt March, led by Mahatma Gandhi, was a 24-day march spanning 387 kilometers from Sabarmati Ashram to Dandi as a direct action campaign of tax resistance against the British salt monopoly. Gandhi started with 78 volunteers. By the time the march reached the coast, a small group of 78 people had become a procession 3 kilometers long.

Gandhi’s colleagues in the Indian National Congress were not initially convinced. Motilal Nehru thought the Salt March would be a stunt. Jawaharlal Nehru wanted to set up an alternative government. Vallabhbhai Patel preferred a march on Delhi.

Gandhi understood something they did not. The point was not the salt. The point was what salt represented, which was the most elemental of human needs, taxed by a foreign power, and denied to people who lived beside the sea. Gandhi chose salt as a talismanic object, ubiquitous through both India’s colonial and pre-colonial past

When he bent down and picked up a handful of salty mud at Dandi, he declared he was shaking the foundations of the British Empire. Within months, over 60,000 Indians had been jailed as a result of the Salt Satyagraha. The British, who had built a global empire on the management of other people’s resources, found themselves unable to manage the optics of arresting an old man for picking up dirt.

Before the British created artificial trade barriers in the late eighteenth century, India had affordable, readily available salt. With natural salt marshes on both its east and west coasts and huge rock salt deposits, India has an ancient tradition of salt making continuing to the present day. The British did not invent the salt tax in India. They tried to monopolise it. And in doing so, they handed Gandhi the most powerful symbol available

What Salt Teaches About Power

Here is the thing that keeps returning the longer you sit with the history of salt.

Every government that taxed it understood the same basic truth: if you control a necessity, you control the people who need it. Salt was not taxed because it was expensive. It was taxed because it was unavoidable. The genius of the gabelle, of the Chinese monopoly, and of the British salt laws was that they converted biological need into political leverage.

And every revolution that used salt as its symbol understood the equal and opposite truth: that nothing delegitimizes power faster than being seen to extract rent from the most basic conditions of human survival.

The salt tax has contributed to the construction of the Erie Canal, financed Columbus’ voyages, and funded Napoleon’s foreign wars. It built walls, roads, palaces, and empires. It also, eventually, brought each of them into question.

There is a jar of salt in your kitchen. It has seen more history than most books.

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